I don’t usually write about a place unless I’ve explored it pretty thoroughly. But I stumbled across Dunster towards the end of a blowy day on my betwixtmas break on Exmoor, and whilst I really, really hope I’ll get back there to spend far more time discovering its many delights than the couple of hours of daylight we had left, just in case I don’t, I wouldn’t want you to miss out on this perfect medieval gem of a village if you’re ever in the North Devon area.

Dunster High Street at the end of the day, with the Yarn Market in the foreground and the castle at the end

And if you are, then honestly I couldn’t encourage you more enthusiastically to put this glorious spot on your must-see itinerary.

As to how much time I’d recommend you spend there (and wish I’d had), well I’d say a full day wouldn’t have a wasted moment in it.

Here are just some of the ways you could happily fill that Dunster day out. There are a few I wasn’t able to do myself, much as I’d loved to have been able to, so I’ve put links to information and in some cases reviews, of everything.)

Stroll along the high street

Dominated at one end by the beautifully preserved 17th century, octagonal, timber-framed, open-sided Yarn Market and at the other by the imposing Dunster Castle (more on that coming up), the high street is a cobbled cornucopia of delightful independent shops and eating spots.

The 17th century Yarn Market on Dunster High Street

You could happily while away some considerable time delving into the wares on offer (I know you won’t be surprised to learn I did manage to do this!)

One of the delightful independent shops that line the high street

And some of the even more delightful wares on sale inside

with plentiful stops for anything from a quick cuppa and a cake, to a full-blown meal at lunch time or dinner. (Here’s the Trip Advisor list of best places to eat in the village)

Even if you don’t go inside many, or any, of the splendid buildings lining this and the adjoining Church Street, appreciating them from the outside is more than enjoyable and satisfying enough.

Two of the many splendid historic buildings in Dunster

Pop into the local museum….and admire some wonderful dolls

Just a little way along the High Street is the Dunster Memorial Hall. It was build in 1921 to commemorate those who fell in the First World War and provide the village with a meeting place. It’s now home to a small museum about the history of the village and what is apparently one of the largest collections of dolls outside the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Dunster Memorial Hall, home to the Dunster Museum and Doll Collection

I can’t describe them to you because the Hall is closed between April and October. It reopens at Easter, when it will again be possible to wonder at the dolls on display from across the centuries, and find out how they came to be collected together. All the info you need is on the Dunster Museum website.

Whatever else you do on your visit to the village, please do leave plenty of time (I’d say three hours) to

Delve into Dunster Castle and Watermill

Dunster Castle sits on the top of a wooded hill

Whilst there’s been a castle on the top of this well-wooded hill since Saxon times - the estate land was granted to the French de Mohun family by William the Conqueror as a thank you for service following his victory at the Battle of Hastings - the building you see there today became the country home of the Luttrell family during the 19th century. (Henry Luttrell commissioned the building of the 18 metre high, three storey stone folly, the Congyar Tower, on a hill at the other end of the village)

Reminders of the castle’s checkered past remain in the form of the impressive medieval gatehouse and a ruined tower, and whilst there’s plenty to see and enjoy inside, including an impressive 17th century carved staircase, the magnificent grounds offer a host of delightful discoveries you don’t want to miss.

Walk along the well-laid paths down through the generously planted, terraced gardens to the picture-pretty River Anvil and along to the castle’s rare medieval watermill (it’s so unusual because has two wheels powered by water delivered by a particular system).

The rare medieval watermill on the banks of the River Anvil

Oh, and on the way, don’t miss the delightful, double-humped stone bridge across the river with it’s charming lovers seat at the half way point.

A delightful double humped bridge near the mill. There’s a lovers seat carved into the stone in that middle bit

The mill has been through various stages of disrepair and restoration in its long history and is now owned and run, as is the castle, by the National Trust. This is no museum showcase site though, the mill is still working today and the NT has produced over 18 tonnes of stoneground flour since taking it over in 2014. You can buy stitch-sealed bags of the flour in the Watermill shop - where there’s also an excellent cafe - or in the atmospheric stables shop up at the castle.

The castle, grounds and watermill are open at various different times throughout the year, so check those, and find out all the other information you’ll need to know to plan your visit here.

Pop into the Parish Church of St George

The Parish and Priory Church of St George

Alongside the castle is the elegant Parish and Priory Church of St George. Dating from 1097, it features a fabulous carved wooden screen that’s well worth taking the time to admire.

Rest for a while in Dunster Village Garden

If you need a bit of a break after all that walking around - and up and down, like the rest of Exmoor, Dunster is hilly in places), you can enjoy a tranquil breather in this pretty, volunteer-maintained garden alongside the church where there’s plenty of seating and generally well planted beds and borders to admire.

There are other delights to enjoy beyond, but not far from, Dunster, including the West Somerset Steam Railway, Bats Castle, the remains of an iron age fort with superb panoramic views, and, of course, the nearby coast where you can either enjoy the wide stretch of Dunster Beach, or a little further to the west, the bustling seaside town of Minehead, from where you can also access the South West Coast Path. But fitting any of those into a day along with all that Dunster has to offer would be a challenge!

However you spend your time in this lovely spot, I guarantee it will be a visit you won’t forget in a hurry.