Icons of British Fashion at Blenheim Palace
Imagine being able to admire the work of some of Britain’s greatest and most iconic fashion designers in the self-styled but hard to dispute ‘Britain’s greatest palace’. Well now you don’t need to. Imagine, that is. Because you actually can see an unforgettable selection of pieces by fashion titans such as Dame Vivienne Westwood, Bruce Oldfield, Stella McCartney, Lulu Guinness and Zandra Rhodes stunningly, and in some cases wildly imaginatively, displayed in the historic surroundings of the state rooms at Blenheim Palace.
The entrance to Icons of British Fashion at Blenheim Palace
Since its first ground-breaking contemporary installation in 2014 when the arresting conceptual works of political artist and campaigner Ai Weiwei were displayed in the hallowed halls of the seat of the dukes of Marlborough, Blenheim has been at the forefront of what has become a growing movement pairing contemporary exhibitions with historic buildings and settings.
Icons of British Fashion is the biggest exhibition in Blenheim’s 300 year history and it’s hard to think that there could be another that has been, or could be more spectacular and memorable. Set against the backdrop of the palace’s baroque interiors and priceless collections of paintings, tapestries and objects, the pieces on display are a mix of classic and never-before-seen looks, some made especially for the event by some of the best-known creators and innovators in the British fashion industry.
Ascending the stairs and walking through the porticoed entrance of the palace into the Great Hall, you’re greeted by five typically arresting, cutting edge outfits by the late Dame Vivienne Westwood and and her creative partner and husband, Andreas Kronthaler, displayed on plinths arranged around the marble-floored, room with its magnificent 20 metre high ceiling.
Designs by Vivienne Westwood in the The Great Hall at Blenheim Palace
This arresting opening salvo sets the scene for the rest of the installations which are arranged through the various state rooms that comprise the formal tour route round the palace (visitors not expecting the exhibition might be somewhat disconcerted by finding the historic setting being hijacked in such an unconventional way. I thought it was brilliant) .
Apparently each living designer - others included in the exhibition who are no longer alive are Jean Muir and shoe maestro Terry de Havilland - was invited to pick their ideal background for their section and was closely involved in the design of their display. The results range from the sophisticated and elegant, with Bruce Oldfield’s refined, classy couture creations looking appropriately chic in the chandeliered Green Drawing Room,
Couture pieces by Bruce Oldfield in the Green Drawing Room at Blenheim Palace
to the riotous and louche, with Alice Temperley choosing to display her signature beautifully beaded, ethereal gowns at a dinner gone lasciviously rogue - two of the mannequin guests are on top of the magnificently set table - amongst the huge wall tapestries in the Second State Room.
Alice Temperley’s dresses on mannequins at a riotous dinner party in the Second State Room at Blenheim Palace
The playful, colourful dresses chosen by punk-inspired designer Zandra Rhodes more than hold their own against the striking walls and enormous family portraits in The Red Drawing Room,
Zandra Rhodes colourful collection in the Red Drawing Room at Blenheim Palac
whilst the dazzling drama of the work of John Galliano is perfectly showcased in The Saloon with its triple-height walls and soaring painted ceiling.
The drama of John Galliano’s designs matching the dramatic setting of The Saloon at Blenheim Palace
There’s irreverence aplenty - British countryside fashion institution Barbour have draped greenery around the historic artwork and tapestries of the Green Writing Room,
Barbour showcasing its designs in The Green Writing Room at Blenheim Palace
Lulu Guinness has installed four neon-branched trees (two of which rotate) on which to display her wittily quirky handbags, along with two huge wicker baskets of overblown flowers, in The First State Room
Lulu Guiness’s witty display for her witty handbags in the First State Room at Blenheim Palace
And her overblown flower arrangements in the same room
whilst Terry de Havilland’s colourful, era-defining footwear takes over a section of the marbled corridor leading to the state rooms turning it into a seventies-inspired den.
Terry de Havilland’s creations take over a section of the marble-floored corridor leading to the state rooms at Blenheim Palace
Other designers have taken a quieter but no less impactful approach. Milliner Stephen Jones selected just three hats, one from each of his three decades of working with Dior, and a piece he designed inspired by Winston Churchill, who was born and married at Blenheim and closely associated with it throughout his life, on a bronze bust of the man himself. The velvet smoking cap is embroidered to match a pair of Churchill’s slippers and incorporates the initial of his wife of 60 years, Clementine.
Stephen Jones’s smoking hat designed in tribute to Winston Churchill
Churchill is also the inspiration behind the pieces displayed by royal warrant shirt-makers Turnbull and Asser whose re-imaginings of his siren suit and signature bow ties are shown in the room where the great statesman was born and which is adorned with paintings by the man himself.
Turnbull and Asser’s designs are also inspired by Churchill, and on show in the room where he was born
The largest collection of a designer’s work is appropriately displayed in the longest room in the palace. A selection of Runway Moments from the sustainably conscious luxury collections of Stella McCartney through the years is paraded along the full length of the enormous Long Library, along with displays and films showing how her passionately principled approach to producing sustainable, animal and cruelty-free fashion has led her to create entirely new fabrics and industry innovations.
Stella McCartney’s Runway Moments in the Long Library at Blenheim Palace
Of course, as well as the Icons exhibition, which runs until June 30th, there’s the rest of the palace and magnificent grounds to explore including a delightfully informative exhibition about Churchill’s life and a beautifully planted formal walled garden, plus plenty of spots to relax and enjoy something to eat and/or drink and a terrific shop.
Whatever to see and do you won’t want to rush your visit, so do set aside a day for it all if you can. But if you should want to spread out your Blenheim experience, or indeed just return any time to immerse yourself in the delights of everything this great palace has to offer - they have a programme of events throughout the year - the good news is the price of your ticket buys you a 12 month pass.
Find details of everything that’s on at Blenheim, opening hours and ticket prices HERE
There’s a bonus helping of extra shots from the exhibition in the These Are The Heydays newsletter which you can find HERE. If you become a subscriber - which you can for free - it pops up in your email inbox every Friday and is filled with inspiration, ideas, recommendations and fun.
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